Clos de Tart tasting

Last week I had the honor to go to the 2007 Mommessin Clos de Tart launch at Nana. To sweeten the deal Wilson Daniels also had us try the 2001, 2002, 2003 Clos de Tart and the 2006, 2007 La Forge de Tart.

This wine has an interesting history only having three proprietors since its creation in 1141. Cistercian nuns (Bernardines de Tart) were the first purchasers of the site, then building the "clos" or "wall" (hence Clos de Tart). It was then acquired in 1789 at the time of the French Revolution, then in 1932 the Mommessins finally purchased this famed vineyard at auction.

Clos de Tart is the largest grand cru monopole in Burgundy (approx. 18.6 acres or 7.53 hectares) with the oldest planted parcel dating back to 1918. It is always good to know that their viticultural philosophy is essentially organic unless certain ailments leave no other option.

The winemaker Sylvian Pitiot led us through the tasting, starting with the La Forge de Tarts. In certain vintages a portion of the wine may be declassified as La Forge de Tart (usually from vines averaging 25 years old). The 2007 had a very expressive nose of violets, and cinnamon followed by the usual Burgundian red berries, finishing with a nice tart, medium length finish. The 2006 had a more demure nose of allspice, clove, and a hint of milk chocolate, followed by a similar palate and finish as the 2007, albeit less complex.

The Grand Cru Clos de Tarts were wonderful. The 2007 had one of the most unique noses I've ever whiffed of violets, cinnamon, and minerals. A 10 on the richter scale of effusiveness this wine didn't hold back at all on the uncuous texture of violet, strawberry and Chambord. Sylvian informed us that the nose we were smelling "today" would soon taper and disappear into a more delicate mold. 2001 Clos de Tart was the most "true Burgundy" with its floral perfume, and chocolate roses, followed by a pure sweet strawberry palate, finishing round and soft. The 2002 was the most intriguing having a much more sweet chocolate note, with a pomegranite,mineral, clove finish. Alas was the 2003. Now I am all for Burgundian purity et al, but this monster was really satisfying but the polar opposite of traditional. This wine smells of milk chocolate, violets, sweet spices, and framboise. The palate was low in acidity, with milky textured sweet red fruits finishing round with mostly framboise, and sweet spice. I enjoyed the 2003 for its flash and the 2001 for its balance.

All in all I really appreciated this tasting showing me the merits of ageing Burgundy. I mostly get to try this great wine upon release and therefore I only know their monolithic, brutish side. I have a new found respect for an already respectable brand, and thank you Wilson Daniels for having this great event.